In recent years, the interest of wine operators and professionals, as well as enthusiasts, has increasingly focused on wines produced in Central and Eastern Europe.
Countries such as Hungary, Slovenia, Croatia, Georgia, and Moldova are emerging on the global wine scene, thanks to a winning combination of ancient traditions, native grape varieties, modern winemaking techniques, and innovative marketing strategies.
The expansion of the market and their increased presence at international fairs such as ProWein and Vinitaly attest to their growing success.
In her recent article in the Financial Times, Jancis Robinson devoted considerable attention to wines produced in countries such as Hungary, Slovenia, and Georgia, particularly praising the quality of native grape varieties and the innovation in winemaking techniques. Her perspective reflects the growing attention and general respect for these emerging wine regions.
WHY LOOK TO THE EAST?
A Return to the Roots with a Contemporary Twist
Beyond the renewed interest in traditional techniques, such as the use of qvevri in Georgia (qvevri, or kvevri, are large clay amphorae used for the fermentation, aging, and storage of wine, typical of Georgian winemaking tradition), many producers are experimenting with the use of clay amphorae and wooden vats in other regions, such as Slovenia and Croatia, to emphasize the territorial identity of their wines.
According to the Georgian National Wine Agency, the success of Georgian wines in international markets, such as the United States, led to a 35% increase in exports in 2023 compared to the previous year.
Native Grapes are capturing attention
Native grape varieties such as Furmint (Hungary), Ribolla Gialla (Slovenia), and Plavac Mali (Croatia) are increasingly appreciated in global markets. These grapes not only offer distinct aromatic profiles but also represent a unique alternative for international palates, which are increasingly eager to diversify their wine experiences. The recent recognition of Furmint as one of the best sweet wines in the world by critics like Jancis Robinson is a key example.
Innovation and Growing Quality
Modern winemaking techniques, such as spontaneous fermentation and the use of indigenous yeasts, are improving the quality of Eastern wines. The inclusion of Croatian and Slovenian wines in Wine Spectator's "Top 100" list is a clear signal of their rising quality and international recognition.
Competitive Pricing and Accessibility
The value of some Eastern European wines is often exceptional compared to those from more well-known regions. According to a 2023 report by Wine Intelligence, the growing popularity of Eastern European wines is attributed not only to their quality but also to their competitive pricing, making them particularly appealing to young, budget-conscious consumers.
Sustainability and Biodiversity as Added Values
The adoption of sustainable practices is not just a trend but a necessity for many producers in Eastern Europe. For example, in 2024, Moldova launched a national organic viticulture project aiming to certify at least 25% of its wineries over the next five years, making wines from these areas particularly attractive to an international audience increasingly concerned with environmental issues.
REGIONS AND WINES TO WATCH
Hungary: Beyond the renowned Tokaji, red wines such as those made from Kékfrankos and Kadarka are gaining attention for their aging potential and distinctive character. Recently, Kékfrankos was selected for the wine lists of some Michelin-starred restaurants in London, including Trivet, known for having one of the best wine selections in the city, featuring a range of exotic and diverse wines, including lesser-known varieties like Kékfrankos. The restaurant is led by Isa Bal, a Michelin Sommelier Award winner.
Slovenia: Known for its white wines from Ribolla Gialla and "orange wines," Slovenia has become a benchmark for natural wines. Slovenian winemakers, unable to rely on a large influx of tourists, must work harder to promote their wines, thus focusing on producing high-quality wines suitable for export.
Georgia: Georgia continues to be celebrated for its red (Saperavi) and white (Rkatsiteli) wines, but it is also expanding its presence at international wine fairs. Recently, Georgia has begun negotiations for partnership agreements with Japan and South Korea, significantly expanding its export market.
Croatia: Plavac Mali along the coast and mineral wines from Graševina and Malvasia in the inland regions are becoming synonymous with quality. The success of wineries in international wine competitions has strengthened Croatia's position as a producer of high-quality wines. The "Ernest Tolj Dingač 2019" from Saints Hills winery received 99 out of 100 points from the prestigious Wine Enthusiast magazine, becoming the highest-rated Croatian wine in history.
Moldova: With its millennia-old winemaking tradition, Moldova is now recognized as one of Europe's most promising emerging wine producers. In 2023, Moldova was the guest of honor at the Berlin International Wine Festival, leading to a significant increase in exports to Germany and other European countries. Specifically, in the first seven months of 2023, Moldovan wine exports rose by 34% compared to the same period in 2022, with growth in both volume and value thanks to increased international demand and the recognition of the quality of Moldovan wines.
The rise of Central and Eastern European wines is bringing new dynamics to the international wine scene, especially for Italian producers.
In a market increasingly open to discovering new terroirs and grape varieties, everything suggests that Italy is facing new and growing competition.
It's not just a matter of volume, but also of value.
Consumers worldwide are increasingly attracted to products that offer perceived quality, authenticity, a distinctive story, and competitive value for money, and producers from countries such as Hungary, Slovenia, Croatia, Georgia, and Moldova are quickly capitalizing on these trends by offering wines that best represent their regional and cultural identities.
To navigate these new dynamics, it is essential for Italy to adopt unified and coordinated approaches based on awareness, planning, and action.
Awareness of new market trends and consumer expectations;
Planning in the promotion of native grape varieties, traditional techniques, and sustainable practices;
Action through targeted promotion and communication strategies that effectively and engagingly convey the uniqueness and quality of Italian wines.
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