Armand Heitz, a leading figure in Burgundy winemaking and an increasingly influential voice in the world of wine, has stirred controversy with his sharp remarks about zero-alcohol wines. Unapologetically dubbing them a “Frankenstein of the wine industry,” Heitz strongly criticizes the rise of products that, in his view, trample on the authenticity and tradition of winemaking.
Armand Heitz attacks on Zero-Alcohol wines
For Armand Heitz, wine is the pure expression of a region, a climate, and a culture.
Zero-alcohol wines, on the other hand, represent the opposite: artificial products created through invasive industrial techniques like spinning cones, reverse osmosis, and vacuum distillation.
“These processes,” says Heitz, “not only destroy the true nature of wine but also leave a significant carbon footprint. It’s just another industry ploy to cash in on a trend, at the expense of values that take centuries to build.”
His words sound like a warning at a time when the European Union is pushing for the adoption of low- or zero-alcohol wines, suggesting that these categories could address new consumer trends and the challenges of a rapidly evolving global market. But for Heitz, this is a misstep—a compromise that dilutes not only wine but also the cultural identity that accompanies it.
Italy joins the trend, but at what cost?
Italy, home to some of the world’s greatest wine traditions, has also recently opened its doors to dealcoholized wines.
A decree signed last December by Minister Francesco Lollobrigida removed the ban on calling a beverage with less than 8.5% alcohol by volume “wine.” This decision paves the way for a commercial revolution but inevitably raises questions: What will remain of the authenticity of Italian wine if we strip it of alcohol, an essential element of its character?
For traditionalists, this move amounts to sacrilege.
Wine is a symbol of craftsmanship and culture; reducing it to a mere trend to satisfy current consumer preferences feels like a betrayal of its roots. Yet, on the other hand, some see zero-alcohol wines as an opportunity: a new market segment catering to health-conscious consumers who are less willing to compromise on lifestyle choices.
A divisive debate
Heitz’s statements are provocative, but at their core, they are a direct indictment of an entire production philosophy.
For the French winemaker, those who wish to avoid alcohol should simply choose natural alternatives: “Drink water or fruit juice. At least you’re not altering a product with deep roots in terroir and history.”
However, for many producers, this view is shortsighted. The global market is changing rapidly, and so are consumer expectations. Ignoring these transformations could mean losing ground to those willing to innovate. But at what cost? Is it possible to innovate without selling out the soul of wine? Heitz, among others, has strong doubts.
A future at a crossroads
The case of zero-alcohol wines is emblematic of a broader struggle in the wine industry: the clash between tradition and innovation, authenticity and adaptation. Winemaking has faced similar challenges before—criticism of the excessive use of modern technology in wineries or the standardization of flavors for the international market. But with zero-alcohol wines, the stakes are much higher.
This is not just a technical or commercial debate but a profound cultural issue.
Wine, in its purest form, is an art.
Turning it into a “neutral” product to cater to a passing trend risks stripping it of its meaning.
The essence of wine at stake
Armand Heitz’s words hit a nerve.
The future of wine depends not only on its ability to respond to market demands but also on its commitment to preserving its essence.
Zero-alcohol wines may be a growing phenomenon, but for many—including Heitz—they represent a shortcut, a compromise that isn’t worth making.
Wine is history, culture, and tradition, and above all, it is a product that must remain true to itself. If consumers are looking for something different, perhaps it’s time we ask ourselves: What do we really want from the future of wine?
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